Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau return to Alaskan winter


The polar mountaineer and adventurer returns to Mt. Hunter for the fifth time to attempt the first winter ascent to its southern peak, known as Mt. Stevens (4,257 m). They both shared the first Mt. Wood in winter two years ago.

Lonnie Dupre is about to embark on his fifth winter expedition to Mt. Hunter, in Alaska. He will do it in the company of his partner and partner of rope for years, Pascale marceau, with whom he already shared the first winter at Mt. Wood (4,842 m) in March 2019 and at Jeanette Peak (3,089 m) the year before, both in Canada.

The trajectory of Lonnie Dupre it is intimately linked with extreme cold and arctic landscapes. The 59-year-old American, living in the cold state of Minnesota, was the first to complete the circumnavigation of Greenland (more than 10,000 km) without the help of a motorized vehicle, only by kayak and dog sled. Then he made the first winter crossing from west to east of the Northwest Passage (almost 5,000 km) by dog ​​sled.

From the mountaineering perspective, his ascent of the Denali (6,190 m) alone and in the harshest of winter, which he managed to complete on his fourth attempt, in January 2015. He then moved his main objective to Mt. Hunter, where he has already spent four winters without having crowned yet.

Objective: Mt. Stevens

This, then, will be the fifth expedition of Lonnie Dupre to this mountain of Alaska, whose indigenous name is Tanaina Begguya, which means “son” (from Denali). The main summit of Mt. Hunter rises up to 4,442 meters of altitude. This point is at the northern end of the somital plateau.

However, the goal of Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau this winter is the secondary summit known as Mt. Hunter Sur o Mt. Stevens (4,257 m), which marks the southern end of the aforementioned somital plateau and has never been ascended in winter. To achieve this, they will try to ascend the southwest ridge of the mountain. It is the same itinerary that Lonnie Dupre already tried last year with two colleagues and that they had to abandon when one of them suffered frostbite.

The tour begins with a channel of about 750 meters unevenness, which leads from the CB to the ridge, about 3,000 meters. It is the most dangerous part of the route, due to avalanche risk, which Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau will try to avoid by climbing it during the freezing winter night.

On the edge, in addition to the many cracks they hope to find, they will also have to overcome a section of ice of about 300 meters and the key section, another 300 meters of mixed climbing a 60º.

His plans are to travel to Alaska this Thursday, February 25, try to get to the CB on March 2 and be back by the end of winter, on March 21.

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