With a costly yet unappealing main event, the Shelbourne Road eatery failed to impress our critic
Fish board, salt and chilli squid, fish salad, cured salmon, coley croquettes. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan
“I always eat everything on the plate so they don’t know what I’m thinking,” said Matthew Fort, the legendary British food writer and critic, as I marvelled at how he chomped through the dire offering put before us to assess. I was in Belfast at the time as the guest Irish judge of an episode of The Great British Menu. While I’d admired Matthew’s ‘fortitude’ back then, I wasn’t prepared to do likewise with the signature fish board at The Cow Pub & Kitchen more…