Three hours passed, and the epic spectacle maintained its grip over our breathless band of riveted viewers, with even the crew taking it in turns to marvel at this up-close nature fest.

Happily, it was all made possible by our unique travel, a cruise ship that isn’t, actually, a cruise ship by modern standards. The distinctive Wilderness Legacy belongs to small-ship specialist UnCruise Adventures, and it provides the anti-cruise experience alongside the vast vessels now crowding the main shipping lanes of Alaska.
In contrast to the…