An amuse-bouche can sometimes do a restaurant a disservice, tempting the palate so thoroughly that there is nowhere left to go. It can be a risky strategy to lead with your best shot. More dangerous, perhaps, is a sneak attack. A bite served on bread. I mean, Lissadell cockles escabeche with fresh cheese (two pieces, €12) looks harmless on paper.
Until you taste it. Cool cream cheese is piled on crystal bread, layered with onions, sweet and rich, and topped with dainty cockles that bring a precise edge…