The Pullman restaurant review: Michelin chef on the right track but plays it safe

Our critic enjoyed chef Angelo Vagiotis’s winning eight-course tasting menu served in former Orient Express train carriages but would love to see some of his Greek heritage on the plate

Inside one of the Pullman train carriages

On Monday evening, in a ceremony at the Convention Centre in Dublin, Angelo Vagiotis of the Pullman restaurant at the Glenlo Abbey Hotel joined the ranks of Ireland’s Michelin-starred chefs; you could see the longed-for jacket almost bursting with pride.

No shrinking violet, the chef had been upfront about his ambitions.

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