Who doesn’t want to be modern? I may dress in a traditional fashion (tailored jackets, overcoats and the occasional fedora), but I would hate to be thought old-fashioned, so I add colour when I can.
I do love a glass of claret with my Sunday roast, but in a wine bar I’m far more likely to order organic, no-added-sulphur zweiglet or nero d’Avola. I promise that this is not to be “down with the kids”, I just find these wines work better in social situations and for my digestion.
Martin and Ulli Diwald’s Grüner Veltliner has appeared here before but not their Zweigelt. A visit to their website at weingut-diwald.at will gladden your heart. The worms under the soil are as important to the Diwalds as the grapes on the vines above.
I had hoped to mention the wines of similarly brilliant Dorli Muhr this week, but I’m waiting until she has a few more stockists — do watch out for her stunning Blaufränkisch in the meantime.
Anyone tired of overpriced Burgundy needs this Pinot Noir in their life. Baden is the most southerly and warmest of Germany’s wine regions and the best wines can rival village Burgundy.
This is unoaked and brisk and fruity on the palate with some earth tones and pleasing linear freshness mingling with supple blackberry and dark cherry. Complexity well beyond its price.
Reduced from €19 in O’Brien’s Easter reductions, which are worth checking out (e.g. Frank Phelan for €35).
From a family run estate in Kamptal, north west of Vienna, along the Kamp river, which flows into the Danube.
Classic white pepper and lime aromas, taut and very dry on the palate with a pleasing citrus freshness and lingering green fruit acidity.
Diwald have been organic since 1976 and were in the vanguard in Austria — they deserve more fame.
They have a stunning orange wine (Zündstoff), and pristine Grüner Veltliner and Rieslings but I’ve not mentioned their Zweigelt before. Minimum intervention but pristine and packed with crushed berry fruits, juicy and lively, and with fleshy vibrant freshness.
- O’Donovans; Urru; Wunderkaffe; Organico; Little Green Grocer; Olive Branch; Bubble Brothers – bubblebrothers.ie; Vintry

Waterford-based Hopfully never disappoint. This breezy fresh extra pale ale been out for a while but not featured here before.
Pouring very pale as you might expect, clean and light, but with apricot notes and lively citrus freshness from simcoe, centennial, and cascade hops. Perfect for spring or early summer days. It’s also gluten-free.
date:2025-04-11 01:00:00
Wine with Leslie: what Defines a Modern Wine? Learning from the Classics
Table of Contents
- Wine with Leslie: what Defines a Modern Wine? Learning from the Classics
- Understanding the evolution of Wine
- Key Characteristics of a Modern Wine
- Learning from the Classics: The Enduring principles of Winemaking
- Case Study: Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Then and Now
- First-Hand Experience: A Tasting of Classic and Modern Wines
- Practical Tips for Exploring Modern Wine
- Benefits of embracing Modern Wine
- The Future of Wine
- Modern Wine Terminology
What makes a wine “modern”? Is it a specific flavor profile, a particular grape, or simply a shift in winemaking ideology? Join Leslie on a journey through the interesting landscape of contemporary wines, where we’ll explore how the classics have influenced and continue to inspire today’s winemakers.
Understanding the evolution of Wine
Wine, at its heart, is a story told through grapes and terroir. But the narrative has been constantly evolving. To understand modern wine, we must first appreciate its historical context. from the ancient amphorae to the oak barrels of Bordeaux, winemaking has been a process of continuous refinement. The techniques and traditions passed down through generations have shaped the wines we enjoy today.
- Ancient Winemaking: Early methods focused on preservation and basic fermentation, often resulting in wines that were markedly different from what we consider palatable today.
- Medieval Monasteries: Monks played a crucial role in preserving and improving winemaking techniques, especially in Europe.
- The Bordelaise Revolution: The Bordeaux region of France established many of the winemaking standards we still use, including specific grape varietals and oak aging.
Key Characteristics of a Modern Wine
While tradition remains significant, modern wines often exhibit characteristics that distinguish them from their predecessors. these differences stem from advancements in technology, a greater understanding of viticulture, and a shift in consumer preferences.
Focus on Fruit and Freshness
Many modern winemakers prioritize capturing the pure, unadulterated flavors of the fruit. This means using techniques that minimize manipulation and preserve the natural aromas and flavors of the grapes. This often translates into:
- Less oak Influence: while oak aging remains a valuable tool, some modern winemakers use it sparingly or opt for neutral oak to avoid overpowering the fruit.
- Earlier Harvesting: Harvesting grapes at optimal ripeness, rather than later for higher sugar levels, helps preserve acidity and freshness.
- Cooler Fermentation: Fermenting at lower temperatures can help retain delicate aromatic compounds.
Embracing Sustainable and Organic Practices
Concern for the habitat and the long-term health of vineyards has led to a surge in sustainable, organic, and biodynamic winemaking. These practices focus on minimizing the use of pesticides, herbicides, and other harmful chemicals, promoting biodiversity, and working in harmony with nature.
- Organic Certification: Meeting strict standards for organic farming and winemaking.
- Biodynamic Farming: A holistic approach that views the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem.
- Sustainable Viticulture: Implementing practices that protect the environment, conserve resources, and promote social responsibility.
Experimentation and Innovation
Modern winemaking is also characterized by a spirit of experimentation and innovation. Winemakers are pushing boundaries,exploring new grape varietals,and experimenting with different techniques to create unique and exciting wines. Some areas of experimentation include:
- Choice Vessels: Using concrete eggs, clay amphorae, or stainless steel tanks for fermentation and aging.
- Skin Contact White Wines: extending the maceration period for white grapes to extract more flavor, tannin, and color, resulting in “orange wines.”
- Wild Fermentation: Relying on native yeasts present in the vineyard or winery to carry out fermentation.
Learning from the Classics: The Enduring principles of Winemaking
While modern winemaking embraces innovation, it also draws heavily from the knowledge and techniques developed over centuries. the classics offer valuable lessons about terroir, grape selection, and the importance of balance.
Terroir Matters
The concept of terroir – the influence of the environment on the character of the wine – remains central to both classical and modern winemaking. Understanding the soil, climate, and topography of a vineyard is essential for producing wines that express a sense of place.
Classic regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, and the Rhône Valley have long demonstrated the importance of terroir. Modern winemakers in emerging regions are also focusing on understanding and showcasing the unique characteristics of their land.
Grape Selection is Key
Choosing the right grape varietals for a particular climate and soil is crucial for producing high-quality wine. Classic regions have established which grapes thrive in their specific environments, and modern winemakers are often guided by this knowledge when planting new vineyards.
However, modern winemakers are also experimenting with lesser-known grape varietals that may be well-suited to their terroir. This can lead to exciting new wines that challenge conventional expectations.
Balance is Essential
A well-balanced wine is one in which all the components – acidity,tannins,alcohol,fruit,and oak – are in harmony. Achieving balance is a key goal of both classical and modern winemaking.
Classic winemaking techniques, such as careful oak aging and blending, are often used to achieve balance in modern wines. modern winemakers also employ techniques like early harvesting and minimal intervention to preserve acidity and freshness, which are essential for creating balanced wines.
Case Study: Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Then and Now
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon offers a compelling example of how winemaking has evolved while retaining core principles. Traditionally,Napa Cabernets were known for their powerful tannins,high alcohol levels,and pronounced oak influence. Modern Napa Cabernets often exhibit a more refined style, with softer tannins, lower alcohol levels, and a greater emphasis on fruit expression.
Though, the best Napa Cabernets, both classic and modern, share certain characteristics: intense fruit flavors, a complex structure, and the ability to age gracefully. the pursuit of these qualities remains a constant, regardless of the specific winemaking techniques employed.
First-Hand Experience: A Tasting of Classic and Modern Wines
The best way to understand the differences between classic and modern wines is to taste them side-by-side. Consider organizing a tasting that includes:
- A Classic Bordeaux Red: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and other traditional Bordeaux varietals.
- A Modern Napa Cabernet Sauvignon: A wine that emphasizes fruit and freshness over oak and tannins.
- A Classic White Burgundy: A Chardonnay from the Burgundy region of France, known for its elegant structure and mineral complexity.
- A Modern New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: A wine that showcases the vibrant,aromatic qualities of the Sauvignon Blanc grape.
as you taste each wine, pay attention to the aroma, flavor, texture, and overall balance.Consider how the winemaking techniques have influenced the final product.
Practical Tips for Exploring Modern Wine
Interested in expanding your palate and discovering the world of modern wine? Here are a few practical tips:
- Visit Local wineries: Many wineries are embracing modern winemaking techniques. Visiting local wineries allows you to learn about their philosophy and taste their wines firsthand.
- Attend Wine Tastings and Events: Wine tastings and events provide opportunities to sample a wide range of wines and learn from experts.
- Read Wine Reviews and Articles: Wine publications and online resources can help you stay informed about new trends and discoveries in the world of wine.
- Experiment with Different Grape Varietals: Don’t be afraid to step outside your comfort zone and try wines made from lesser-known grape varietals.
- Ask Questions: When in doubt, ask your local wine merchant or sommelier for recommendations. They can definitely help you find wines that suit your taste and budget.
Benefits of embracing Modern Wine
Exploring modern wines offers several benefits:
- Finding of New Flavors: Modern winemaking techniques can unlock new and exciting flavors in wine.
- Support for Sustainable Practices: By choosing wines made using sustainable, organic, or biodynamic practices, you can support environmentally friendly agriculture.
- Expanded Wine Knowledge: Learning about modern wine will deepen your understanding of winemaking and the factors that influence wine quality.
- Enhanced Gratitude for Wine: Tasting a wide range of wines will enhance your appreciation for the art and science of winemaking.
The Future of Wine
The future of wine looks luminous, with continued innovation and a growing emphasis on sustainability. As winemakers continue to explore new techniques and adapt to changing consumer preferences,we can expect to see even more exciting and diverse wines in the years to come. The classics will always hold a special place, but the modern wine movement is pushing boundaries and redefining what wine can be.
Modern Wine Terminology
To help you navigate the modern wine landscape, here’s a swift glossary of terms you might encounter:
- Natural Wine: Wine made with minimal intervention, frequently enough without added yeasts, sulfites, or other additives.
- Orange Wine: White wine made with extended skin contact, resulting in an amber color and more tannic structure.
- Pet-Nat (Pétillant Naturel): A naturally sparkling wine made using an ancestral method, where the wine is bottled before fermentation is complete.
- Zero Dosage: Sparkling wine with no added sugar after the second fermentation.
- Low Intervention: A winemaking philosophy that emphasizes minimal manipulation and allowing the wine to express its natural character.
| Characteristic | Classic Wine Example | Modern Wine Example |
|---|---|---|
| Oak Influence | Heavy, noticeable vanilla notes | Subtle, integrated; fruit-forward |
| Acidity | Medium to low, depending on the varietal | Frequently enough higher, promoting freshness |
| Alcohol | Can be high (14%+ ABV) | trend towards lower (12-13% ABV) |
| Winemaking Philosophy | Focus on established techniques, reputation | Experimentation, sustainability focus |
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