Wine with Leslie: What defines a modern wine? Learning from the classics

Who doesn’t want to be modern? I may dress in a traditional fashion (tailored jackets, overcoats and the occasional fedora), but I would hate to be thought old-fashioned, so I add colour when I can. 

I do love a glass of claret with my Sunday roast, but in a wine bar I’m far more likely to order organic, no-added-sulphur zweiglet or nero d’Avola. I promise that this is not to be “down with the kids”, I just find these wines work better in social situations and for my digestion.

So what defines a modern wine? Well, oddly enough it means going back to basics and eschewing many 20th-century innovations.

A “modern” wine is a bit of a paradox; probably fermented in big old barrels, ancient clay amphora, in concrete (invented 1824), or perhaps in a modern concrete egg…

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