Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: A serving of Japanese wagyu – four rasher-sized slivers at €92 – made me want to scream ‘Emperor’s new clothes!’

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Between wafers of wagyu and a few finicky inhospitable moments, we struggled to enjoy a meal at this new restaurant in Dublin’s Docklands

Irish wagyu chuck flap tail, left, and Japanese A5 wagyu premium tenderloin at Yakiniku Matsukawa in Dublin 1. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan

We may have been in the Wolf of Wall Street territory of Dublin’s International Financial Services Centre, where billions change hands every day, but even so, a serving of the idolised Japanese wagyu, considered the Dom Pérignon of the beef world – four rasher-sized slivers at €92 – made me want to jump up and scream ‘Emperor’s new clothes!’

The new Japanese Yakiniku Matsukawa is an offshoot of…

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