It is rare to find a restaurant that takes vegetarian dishes seriously. Too often it is a that-will-do nod; a pasta dish, a risotto or similar. But if you examine the line-up carefully – a fun occupation, I know – you will perhaps find that their genesis is slightly suspect. Quite often, they are meat dishes with the animal removed.
Richmond restaurant in Portobello, with its narrow grey frontage and discreet red neon sign, is easy to miss, and is probably not the…